The rooftop of Virginia.
This is the place you’d send someone who asked, “Tell me about Southwest Virginia.”
Grayson Highlands State Park, just a stone’s throw from the state’s two highest peaks, offers the views painters paint, photographers photograph and us regular folk gape at in awe.
But the high country is more than scenic views and rocky mountaintops. Along with overlooks, trails – for horseback riders and hikers – crisscross the huge, 4,500-acre state park off U.S. Highway 58 in Grayson County, leading visitors to waterfalls, alpine-like vistas and horses.
There are signs all along the pathways to leave the ponies alone, but, of course, no one listens. You should, really. Now, the horses, which we’ve been told have developed tougher hooves and larger lungs over the generations, may not leave you alone. They’ve become super accustomed to people and will come nuzzle if you stop midway up the trail to guzzle a bit of water.
The wild ponies were introduced in 1974 to prevent reforestation of the balds. The herd is managed by the Wilburn Ridge Pony Association, which auctions off the ponies after fall roundups.
Grayson Highlands boasts some of the finest bouldering in the region. For those of you not versed in what bouldering is, let us explain. It’s rock climbing, but lower and without ropes. Most of the crazy folks you might see digging into stones by their fingertips keep a crash pad on the ground, giving them a safe (ish) place to fall.
But let’s be honest. Most of us aren’t “going up on the mountain” to claw into rocks, defying gravity. Most everyone going into the park is there to put one foot in front of another.
Backpacking is the name of the game at Grayson Highlands. And does it ever have a lot of opportunities. You could spend years wandering around on the trails, exploring the streams and having surprise run-ins with the occasional bear without seeing the same place twice. Heck, you could, if you were of the mind to, start off in a parking lot at Grayson Highlands and wander down to Springer Mountain or up to Katahdin since the Appalachian Trail cuts through the area.
Like the Smokies a bit south, Grayson Highlands is somewhat a victim of its own popularity. As many as 6,000 people each year – a good bit of them coming in the warmer months – visit the park to camp and hike annually. This raises some concerns about the fragile nature of the nature there.
Should you wander into Grayson Highlands during the third Saturday in June, be prepared to hear some of the music that’s made this area famous across the globe. And be prepared for crowds. Those 6,000 visitors? Yep, they’re all here that day, at the same time.
The Wayne C. Henderson Music Festival and Guitar Competition welcomes the best in bluegrass and old time to the stage and brings in some of the world’s best flat pickers bent on winning themselves a coveted handmade Henderson guitar.
Hiking and music not your thing?
That’s fine, we guess, though we don’t necessarily want to hang with you.
Still Grayson Highlands will.
For all the talk of a hiker’s paradise, wild ponies and downhome music, there’s a different, watery side of Grayson Highlands. Nearly 10 miles of trout streams flow through the park. Beware, though, only single hooks and artificial can be used and trout smaller than nine inches have to be released.
Within the park, there’s 3.5 miles of fishable waters in Big Wilson Creek, which can be accessed off the Appalachian Trail at Massie Gap.
There’s also 1.8 miles of water in Wilburn Branch, which can be found along Stamper’s Branch or Upchurch Road Trail.
In the southeastern portion of the park, Mill Creek offers up 1.1 miles of trout water. Find it off Mill Creek Road, near the park’s entrance. In the northern part of the park is 1.1 miles in Quebec Branch. Access it from the AT or at Massie Gap.
Cabin Creek, which also boasts a tasty little waterfall, supplies 2.1 miles of fishable water filled with wild rainbow and native brook trout. Get there off Cabin Creek Trail.
Believe us, you’ll want to spend more than one day exploring all Grayson Highlands has to offer. Lucky for you the park offers plenty of camping spots, a bunkhouse for rent and yurts for rent. Camping is only available from May to October. One of the yurts is ADA-accessible, and each comes perched atop a wooden deck that also holds a picnic table and rocking chairs.
We’ll be honest with you, once you’re down off the mountain, the eating options are pretty slim. That doesn’t mean they aren’t first-class, though.
Nearby, you’ll find Corner Market Cafe, situated, as the name implies, on the corner of US 58 and state Route 16. The restaurant, inside a log cabin, has spacious seating and some fine, down-home cooking, serving up everything from greens to prime rib.
Down the road a piece, en route to Marion, you’ll see Fox Creek General Store in Grant. Here you can catch some live music, dine on some good grub and slurp back a beer or glass of wine.
Aside from that, you’ll most likely have to venture into Marion or Independence, both of which boast some solid restaurants.
